Kitchen Worktops Resource

Maintaining Soapstone Worktops

Administrator — Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:37:59 +0000

Taking care of soapstone is easy. Apply a protective coat of mineral oil to all sinks and counter tops right after installation. Mineral oil enhances the natural veining characteristics and crystallization of soapstone. If your soapstone worktop is damaged, follow these easy steps.

STEP 1 – Sanding Scratches

Most all scratches will disappear with a direct dab of mineral oil. To permanently remove a deep scratch, apply medium pressure to the scratched area with 80 grit sandpaper. A sanding sponge is recommended. The deeper the scratch, the more sanding will be needed.

STEP 2 – Oiling

After the scratch has been sanded out, you will need to apply a light coat of mineral oil to the sanded area. The mineral oil application should be repeated 2-3 times over a 2-3 day period to match the coloration of the rest of the stone.

To maintain your soapstone use a damp cloth or sponge with cleanser for daily cleanings when needed. Oiling will enhance the luster and color of the stone, and restore that brand new look once again. Subsequent coats should be re-applied monthly.

Kitchen Worktops - Soap Stone

Administrator — Wed, 05 Sep 2007 10:31:54 +0000

Soapstone is a natural stone that comes in a wide variety of colors and sizes. Soapstone is a metamorphic rock, also known as “steatite”, which is comprised primarily of talc, chlorite, dolomite, and magnesite.

People are often confused by the fact that there are different types and grades of soapstone. Artistic grade soapstone contains more talc, so it’s softer and suitable for carving. When specifying soapstone for countertops be sure to ask for architectural grade soapstone. Architectural grade soapstone has much less talc thus it’s harder and more suitable for counter top usage.

Because of its mineral composition and the process by which it is formed, soapstone is very dense, non-porous, and chemically inert. Remember your old high school science lab? Soapstone has been used for decades as chemistry lab tables, because it is inert so won’t be harmed by acidic materials.

Nothing will stain or etch soapstone and you do not have to apply artificial sealers to protect soapstone counter tops. Other natural stones such as some granites and all marbles, will stain or etch even after applications of sealers. There are materials to clean stain, but removing a stain completely is hard to do.

Soapstone is also a great conductor of heat and can withstand very high temperatures. You can put hot pots and pans directly on your soapstone countertop surface. For centuries, soapstone has been quarried and used throughout the world. Soapstone was traditionally used in colonial New England for fireplace hearths, sinks, counter tops, and wood stoves.

In addition to soapstone’s traditional uses, it’s currently used for stair treads, balusters, sills, island tops and mixing bowls. Because of its unparalleled heat retention characteristics, it’s the perfect choice for cookware, cook tops, oven floors, masonry heaters and fireplace liners. After soapstone is initially heated from burning wood, pellets or coal, it slowly radiates the heat evenly for hours – even after the fire is out! Soapstone can also be used for carving and sculpture.

Kitchen worktops - solid surfacing

Administrator — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 07:30:23 +0000

Solid Surface

What It Is
Those aiming for a picture-perfect kitchen should certainly investigate solid surfacing. Made of solid synthetic sheets formed by mixing a mineral compound with polyester and/or acrylic resins, the countertop is smooth and uniform throughout—you can get the look of stone without the seams or potential color variations.

Pros

Because it’s solid (the pattern or color runs throughout), chips, dents and scratches can be repaired easily.
Comes in a variety of colors and finishes ranging from gloss to matte; it can look and feel like stone.
Flexible enough to form decorative shapes and an integral sink.
Can be molded into a single seamless piece. If seams are necessary, they’re inconspicuous and non-porous, preventing the growth of bacteria.
A high gloss countertop can be buffed back to its original luster.

Cons

May crack as it cools down after a hot item has been on it.
Will stain. However, because it’s nonporous (that is, nothing soaks too far into it), spots can be scrubbed out.
Could become discolored if a heavy object falls on it.
You’ll need to use a cutting board, though scratches can be sanded out.

Quick Tip
Take advantage of solid surfacing’s flexibility and formability: consider creating a non-traditionally shaped island top free of sharp corners, as in the shape of an artist’s pallet.

To Clean
According to solid surfacing pioneer DuPont Corian, most dirt can be removed with soapy water or an ammonia-based cleaner. You can disinfect the surface with a solution of diluted household bleach (one part water/one part bleach).

Cost
About $70-$150 per square foot.

Kitchen worktops - quartz

Administrator — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 07:29:56 +0000

Quartz

What It Is

The superman of stone, quartz surfacing provides a nearly indestructible material, idea for homeowners who want a beautiful countertop—that they might occasionally spill wine on! Providing the look of natural stone with a mettle that laughs in the face of coffee, lemon juice and high-maintenance care, its non-porous nature protects against more than just stains—it’s also extremely hygienic, making it a food-safe choice.

Though quartz surfacing is sometimes referred to as “engineered” quartz, don’t be fooled into thinking that you’ll end up with a synthetic countertop. Expect pure natural quartz (generally upwards of 90 percent) mixed with epoxy resin binders. The care-free surface doesn’t require sealants. Boasting the look of natural stone, quartz surfacing has a consistent color; its color should be very close to what you saw in the showroom.

Pros

Does not require sealants.
Scratch-resistant with diamond-like hardness, you can cut on quartz (excessive force can damage it, however).
Consistent color.
Its non-porous makes it virtually stain-free.
Can be worked into a decorative edge.

Cons

Though it can briefly tolerate moderate temperatures for a brief time, you’ll want to use a hot pad or trivet when placing a hot pan on it.
Integrated sinks are not available, as with solid surfacing.

Quick Tip

Quartz surfacing is available in colors not found in nature, as the crushed stone is generally mixed with pigment. Take advantage, and choose a color that dazzles while still looking like stone.

To Clean

Though it’s important to always follow your manufacturer’s specific instructions, CAMBRIA, a leading producer of natural quartz countertops, recommends washing with warm water and a pH neutral, non-abrasive cleaner.

Cost

Similar to natural stone, expect to pay $70-$250 per square foot.

Kitchen worktops - natural stone

Administrator — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 07:25:50 +0000

Natural Stone

Soapstone courtesy of Green Mountain Soapstone

What It Is

It’s hard to beat the beauty of natural stone, and it shows. Granite countertops consistently top the "most wanted" list, due in part to their durability and rich composition. But it’s certainly not the only stone on the block. The most common natural stones used to make kitchen counters are:

Granite
Marble
Limestone
Slate
Soapstone
Natural quartz

You should insist on seeing the slabs selected for your kitchen before they arrive (typically you’ll have a chance to do this at the fabricator’s workshop). If they were prepared from different lots, the color of the stone you saw in the showroom may not exactly match the stone set aside for you. Make sure you are comfortable with any differences. Also, know that you can choose from a variety of finishes. Common ones include polished (for a high-gloss surface), honed (smooth with more of a matte look), flamed (a blow-torch creates a textured surface) and tumbled (the stone itself is tumbled, resulting in rounded edges appropriate for old world or farmhouse kitchens; matte, but not as smooth as honed).

How they compare

Granite Granite is the most durable, and is chip and scratch resistant. You can cut, roll dough, and place hot pots directly on granite. Because stone is porous, each stone requires special sealants. But granite absorbs the least and only requires resealing about once a year.

Marble Because it’s smooth and cool to the touch, marble is the traditional favorite for rolling dough and making pastries. However, it lacks the durability of granite and requires sealants to be applied more frequently to prevent stains.

Limestone Limestone is not the best choice for messy—or frequent—cooks. It offers a unique weathered look but also stains easily due to its more porous nature, so spills must be addressed immediately. But don’t write it off too quickly: Jerusalem stone, a generic term for stone primarily quarried from areas around the Holy Land, is a dolomite-limestone that resembles marble but is hardier than both it and limestone.

Slate Used for centuries to create stylish weather resistant roofs, slate’s natural beauty and strength are finding their way into the kitchen. Befitting of a roofing material, slate is durable, hard and fireproof. Luckily, it’s beautiful, too, making it a prime choice for homeowners seeking a countertop that will make a statement. Its low absorption rate keeps stains at bay, though you may want to seal regularly to add a further dose of protection.

Soapstone Often referred to as "the original stone countertop," early settlers in New England relied on the durable material for their own countertops. Far from a high-maintenance top, soapstone’s inert nature means acids won’t etch the material, and stains can be rubbed out. Mineral oil treatment will bring out a darker, richer color. Make a powerful statement by combining with a soapstone sink.

Quick Tip

As you investigate your natural stone options, consider functionality first, then this: do you want a stone that will look brand new 10 years from now, or one that will take on the patina of age? Let your answer help guide your choice.

To Clean

Stone is a natural product, and cleaning is fairly simple, though be sure to follow specific instructions for your stone. Monticello Granite, the first nationally available countertop company, recommends that stone surfaces be cleaned with a few drops of a neutral cleaner, stone soap or mild liquid dishwashing detergent. Always avoid products containing abrasives, lemon, vinegar or other acids, as well as scouring pads.

Cost

About $70-$100 per square foot. Though top-of-the-line slabs can run upwards of $300 per square foot.

Kitchen worktops - wood

Administrator — Wed, 08 Aug 2007 07:24:56 +0000

What It Is

The most common wood countertop you know as butcher block, those thick hardwood maple surfaces that every knife-wielding chef dreams about. Butcher blocks generally vary in thickness between 1 ¼ and six inches, and are made of stacked and glued hard maple pieces; the exposed end grain is the cutting surface. Other woods such as cherry, teak and walnut can be used, though they’re generally chosen more for their decorative effect or used on a hutch.

Pros

Won’t dull knife blades.
Provides a convenient, built-in chopping/food prep area.
After heavy usage, in many cases knife marks can be removed by sanding and re-oiling.

Cons

Requires sealants.
Should be periodically re-oiled.
Shows knife marks.
Prone to water damage so it shouldn’t be placed near the sink without several coats of sealant.

Quick Tip

Considering a butcher block island? Hang a pot rack overhead to make food prep even easier—chop those veggies and put them right in the pot!

To Clean

According to butcher block great John Boos, it’s important to periodically apply a non-toxic mineral oil appropriate for kitchen use with a rag. Never use harsh detergents to clean, and follow your manufacturer’s guidelines.

Cost

About $10-$40 per square foot.

Polishing Granite Worktop

Administrator — Sat, 04 Aug 2007 19:33:11 +0000

Of all the natural stones that you can choose for flooring granite is by far the hardest material and the most hardwearing. It is also resistant to staining and acid and alkaline chemicals. This is the reason it is the kitchen worktop of choice and the flooring material of choice.

Despite its hardness it is still capable of being scratched by quartz. Quartz is sand like material which makes up the biggest proportion of dirt brought into a building on the underside of footwear. Traffic going over this then moves the small particles of sand over the surface of the granite causing minute scratches. The scratching effect on granite will be much less than that on marble for instance but non-the-less it still scratches. This effect can be minimized by the correct maintenance programme. A typical maintenance programme for granite flooring would be to dust mop the floor each day to remove these particles of dirt and once or twice a week depending upon traffic wash the floor with stone soap. This reseals the floor and enhances the colour. This is then wet vacuumed up and the floor then washed with pure water which is also wet vacuumed up. This wet vacuuming prevents the possibility of water staining.

Once per week or once every other week, again depending upon traffic the floor is misted with a crystallising agent and buffed at high speed. This removes the minute scratches and restores the shine to a floor which may be dulling very slightly in areas of high traffic. Then once per year it can be shined using a more abrasive crystallising compound and a slow speed buffer with non-rusting steel wool pads.

If this regime is followed then the shine on the granite floor should last for as long as you require it.

If the floor becomes neglected and is not cleaned correctly then it will slowly become dull and the scratching will build up enhancing the dull effect. If this was a marble floor then the scratching would be greater and could be removed and the shine restored by using diamond grinders on a slow speed buffing machine. However successful re-grinding of granite cannot be achieved. It can be re-ground using the diamond technique and made shiny but quite often it causes a colour change in the granite which is obviously not acceptable to the customer.

This regrinding process which for marble might take about 30 minutes per square meter for granite, being much harder takes about two to three hours to achieve any sort of shine.

In the processing plants marble is ground for about 40 minutes to achieve the high gloss effect. Granite on the other hand will be ground for several hours to achieve the same effect. There is no way that once the granite is in place this process can be replicated.

Consequently if you have a granite floor and it dulls and somebody offers to restore the shine by re-grinding it do not bother. You will end up with a floor that may be shiny but has probably changed colour and it will have cost you a small fortune. Take care of it from the outset and you will never be in this position.

David Andrew Smith is the owner of http://www.wesparkle.co.uk a cleaning services company specialising in the care and maintenance of natural stone flooring.

A detailed guide to wall tiling over kitchen worktops

Administrator — Sat, 04 Aug 2007 19:31:12 +0000

Tiling a kitchen splashback is a task that can be carried out by many DIYers. It needs (like most tasks) some planning and preparation in order not to waste time and money. A simple to do list will help you on the steps to take hence trouble free and relaxed attitude in accomplishing your project.

So, where to begin? First of all find out if you are ready for tiling. A couple of things to consider are:

Are you in need to replace any kitchen units or worktops?
Have you got existing tiles over the walls?

If you are considering changing the work surface at some stages soon, then it will make sense to wait a bit longer as the tops thickness could be different from the existing one or maybe you discover that you prefer a different colour, style or fashion which won’t match the tiles that you have purchased (this has happened several times).

With advanced technology is has been possible purchase special tile adhesives to install new tiles on to existing tiles. It is worth mentioning that (where suitable) special attention will need to be paid on the existing background. Can the existing substrate hold the weight of the new covering? Will the perimeter edges be seen? Will you be happy to see two layers of tiles sticking out from the walls or is better to remove the existing layer? Will the extra thickness of tile be pushing outwards the electrical outlets, causing problems with the socket’s screws being too short? What about the electric cables on the sockets not been able to be stretched enough! All of this must be taken in consideration before you embark with your project. If you are taking the old tiles off the wall do make sure that all adjacent areas are protected by padded dust sheets and that you have full protection gear on as the tiles can easily cut through bare skin. Dust mask and goggles are an absolute must.

Sizing up the tiles Before you do anything else check to see if you have the correct tiles, the correct amount of tiles and if you are using border tiles and/or inserts/decor tiles then check for size variations. This happens often. If there are size variations you will need to take this into account before deciding on what type of spacing is more aesthetically right. What can happen is that you may have started to tile the wall and have a 1.5 mm joint, then you put the border on top and the border being to big, will go out of alignment from the rest of the tiles. Take your time. Try to visualize all the tiles on the wall, as a finished job, then you can foresee any possible problems and avoid them.

Nearly ready to tile Have a look on the tile’s packaging to see if there are special recommendations for spacing the tiles. Different tiles will require different joint sizes. If you use standard ceramic wall tiles you could use 2 mm tile spacers and if you use rustic tiles, 5 - 10 mm spacers. All is relevant to the style and working size of the tiles. Check for batch difference, and always open several boxes and use few tiles from each box. Check the worktops with a spirit level (Ideally one that is 120 cm or longer); see if the tops are level, if not you might need to space up the lowest section with tile spacers or cardboard.

If the base is too much out of level from one end to the other, then you will need to allow a full tile at the lowest point and then draw a level line at the top of this tile and any tiles that do not fit from the line down to the worktop, will need to be trimmed to size using a tile nippers or wet tile cutter. Many times when you try to draw the line you find that the sockets are in the way. If this happens then instead of using one tile at the lowest point, use two tiles, (one on top of the other and draw the level line at the top of the second tile) that usually works. Don’t forget to insert a tile spacer if you are using any. On rare occasions you will need a laser level with a continuous projected line or a rotating laser level. This will nicely go around the obstacles.

What spreading trowel to use. The thickness of the adhesive should be such that when the tile is in its final place, the adhesive should not squeeze out from the joints. Most times a trowel with 6 mm notches is fine and in general you can use tiles of 10 - 20 cm square. If mosaic is to be installed then you might need a 3 mm notched trowel and if hand made tiles are to be used, then either use the 6 mm trowel and butter up the back of the tile, or use a 10 mm and above to suit the tiles. More adhesive will be required if the tiles have a deep profile or studs than if the back is smooth. If there is adhesive squirting out from the tile joints, then use a thin flat screwdriver or Stanley knife to clear the joint and then use a damp cloth or sponge to clean the tiles. It is important not to have the adhesive getting in contact with natural stone (like marble) as it can stain it and then detract from its nice look.

Electrical points. Undoubtedly you going to have to cut around electrical points (sockets, fuse spurs, cooker switches, light switches, etc.) Make sure that you know where the electric supply is and SWITCH IT OFF. You should be able to isolate the kitchen electricity so that you can still use other sockets around the house.

Tiling tools. There are plenty of DIY tiling tools on the market that allow you to carry out tiling on a small budget. If you are using thin ceramic tiles then a tiling starter kit can help you. Here is what you will need for an average job.

Manual tile cutting machine
Spirit level
Tile nippers
Tile file or sanding block
Electric tile saw
Protective goggles
Electric extension lead
Squeegee
Protective gloves
2 Clean buckets
Sponge
Stanley knife
Tile spacers
Pencil or tile marker
Mixing trowel
spreading trowel
Silicone shaping tool or kit
Tile trim mitre box
Ear protectors
Dust masks

Tile Trims. On some occasions it is necessary to add tile trims to the tiles. An example of this is where two tiles meet on an external angle, where the tile edge will need protection from being chipped or if the walls are not plumb and it is required to have cuts at both extremities, or if the tiles have no glazed edges. If you like or need tile trim, make sure you use the right size ones to fit the thickness of the tile. Some tiles do not require tile trims as they have their edge glazed, others will need trims. If you are painting the walls adjacent to the tiles, you could use the trims only on the external angles where the tiles meet and simply paint the unglazed edges on the top of the last tile.

Windows. If one wall to be tiled has a window on it, find the middle point of the window sill and measure with the tiles to see how big the end cuts are. If the end cuts are too small, offset the middle point to half tile and recheck. Start with the best measurement in order to achieve the best look ( you will want a cut that is bigger than 20 mm). Attention must be applied to not end up with opposite cuts too big (nearly full tile), as this would give you very small cuts on the front vertical of the window and hence can give you problems with either cutting the tiles or an even worse problem with alignment if the vertical edges are off plumb. Also check to see if the window sill is level. Many times it isn’t and if that’s the case you can find the highest spot and when it comes to tile the front (between the worktop and the windowsill) start from there and when you are ready to tile the top of the sill, fill it level with adhesive. If the difference is too much, you might have to use two layers of tiles or make good with some plaster or cement before tiling.

First tile the front wall to the height needed and then cut and apply the tile trim (if required) on the perimeter and then tile the window sill and sides.

Grouting Once the tiles have been installed let them dry overnight before grouting. You will need to buy the right grout for the tiles used:

Thin joint grouts for small joints (some grout can be used from 1 - 5 mm)
Wide joint grouts for joints of 3 -20 mm
Standard grouts
Flexible grouts (developed for porcelain tiles or where small movements are possible)
Epoxy grouts for industrial and/or special hygiene areas

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions on the usage and application.

Silicone Once the grout has dried you can apply the silicone sealant if needed.

You can buy silicone suitable for general use, this is usually of the “Acetoxy” type but if the tiles are made of natural stone then you will need a silicone suitable for this (ask your supplier for a “Neutral Cure” silicone) as general silicone might stain some marble. Silicone is a beast of its own. You will need to be quick and careful with it! It can be helpful if you purchase a silicone tool kit.

If you have to remove old silicone, help is at hand in the form of “silicone remover”. Easy to work with making it easier in removing decayed, mouldy silicone. more…

Hope this is clear and helpful to you. Happy tiling.